He wanted to be “just a surfer, not a star.” I wonder if he's okay with being a legend. In preparation for his visit to NYC for Patagonia's screening of Uncharted Waters, surfer Wayne Lynch was kind enough to answer a few questions. Come to the screening on Thursday, but grab a ticket in advance! And then tell him why he should try surfing in NY for the first time.
What did you love most about surfing when you were first getting into it and what do you appreciate most about it now?
From a very young age, I was always fascinated with the creative potential of riding waves on all types of crafts, as time went by it became more a sense of freedom and a way of life with unique opportunities to explore surfboard design and surf in wild and beautiful places.
How does what you ride today compare to what you started on?
The boards now are so different, its almost incomparable to the old days, the refinement in surfboard design for a person who hasn't lived through it is almost impossible to understand, the boards back then where so much bigger, heavier and cumbersome. Even during the refining process of the late 60's, the rocker lines and bottom shapes, were still nothing like we ride today. Right now the performance potential of the modern surfboard is so far beyond anything that went before.
How were you a “conscientious objector”?
I'm a conscientious objector to any war that is not necessary to fight, especially a politically motivated one, which Vietnam was.
Patagonia has chosen you for obvious reasons, but why do you choose to align with the brand?
I initially was drawn to Patagonia way back in the late 80's and admired the way they used very uncontrived marketing, and their products were made of organic and recycled materials, to me this was the direction the whole surf industry should've taken.
Surfing, sailing….why do you think you gravitate toward the ocean?
l've always felt so comfortable in the ocean, its a place I can truly relax and be myself, surfing and sailing seem to interact so perfectly with each other.
How have health issues changed your perspective and what you do?
I always choose to live as positively as I can, it's let me appreciate more than ever the life I've lived, and still live today and the time I have with family and friends.
How often are you in/on the water?
Not often enough, as family and work commitments are so demanding these days.
How would you compare US surf culture and Australia surf culture?
I think that in America, people are far more aware of surfing history, and have a deeper appreciation of those people who have made contributions to it.
Have you surfed much in NY? From up close or afar, what do you think about it?
No I have never surfed here before, sorry I can't help you here..!! But I have seen some nice looking uncrowded surf in the old days at Montauk or Long island area.
What do you hope is the impact of Uncharted Waters on an individual?
That it might inspire people in a positive way, in regard to there own surfing and lives.